Western Australia

After returning to Melbourne, our next adventure took us to Western Australia. We started in Perth, visiting family and catching up with newfound friends before hiring a camper van and setting off along the coast towards Esperance.

Winding our way south, we passed through Mandurah, hugging the coastline, where every turn in the road revealed yet another breath-taking beach. Naturally, we stopped to swim at as many as possible! Moving from the Indian Ocean to the Southern Ocean, we took a moment to see where the two oceans meet at Cape Leeuwin and toured the lighthouse. In Margaret River, we soaked in the surf culture, admired the famous waves, and picked up a fantastic coffee before heading inland.

From Albany, we drove through the Stirling Ranges, stopping to take in the beauty of the Porongurups. Driving slowly through the region, I couldn’t help but notice how many place names ended in "-up." A little research revealed that in the local Indigenous language, "up" means "place" or "place by water"—a fascinating insight into the land's deep cultural history.

Arriving in Esperance, we were met with the whitest sand I’ve ever seen. In town, we swam at Blue Haven Beach, then ventured into Cape Le Grand National Park, where we explored Hellfire Bay, Lucky Bay, Thistle Cove, and Grand Bay. Sadly, due to recent storms, the waves and currents were too strong for much swimming—so much so that even the surfers were absent.

Discovering Esperance Stonehenge

As we came out of Esperance on our way to Cape le Grand, we stumbled upon an unexpected marvel—a full-sized replica of the United Kingdom's Stonehenge. Constructed from 137 locally quarried pink granite stones, some weighing up to 58 tons, the Esperance Stonehenge is aligned with the winter and summer solstices, mirroring the original's celestial connections.

esperancestonehenge.com.au

This impressive structure offers visitors a tangible link to ancient history, allowing for an immersive experience that isn't possible at the original site.

Now it was time to turn and head back toward Perth. We hugged the coast and took a detour to Bremer Bay for an unforgettable orca-watching experience. The captain of our boat had an incredible understanding of these magnificent creatures, expertly predicting their movements. If you're ever in the area, I highly recommend taking a tour with Naturaliste Charters—you can check out some photos from our trip on my Instagram!

From there, we continued to Denmark, a charming town surrounded by stunning coastal scenery. Just outside, we visited the beautiful Greens Pool and Elephant Rocks—both absolutely breathtaking.

Into the Heart of the Karri Forests

Leaving the coast behind, we ventured into the towering Karri forests, home to some of the tallest trees in Australia. These giants, which can grow up to 90 meters (295 feet) tall, dominate the landscape in the South West, particularly around Pemberton and Denmark. Their smooth, pale bark sheds in ribbons, revealing a mix of soft pink, grey, and orange tones, and in spring, they bloom with tiny white flowers that attract birds and insects.

The Karri forests are home to many unique species, including the Western ringtail possum and the striking red-tailed black cockatoo, and they play a vital role in storing carbon and maintaining the region’s water cycle.

Encountering Ancient Life at Lake Clifton

As we neared the end of our journey, we made one last fascinating stop at Lake Clifton in Yalgorup National Park, just before heading to Martins Tank campsite for our final night. Here, we saw the thrombolites, ancient living rock-like formations created by microbial communities. These incredible structures, over 2,000 years old, are closely related to some of Earth’s earliest life forms—the same types of organisms that helped produce the oxygen that made life on our planet possible.

A boardwalk extends over the lake, allowing visitors to view these formations up close without disturbing their delicate ecosystem. Standing there, looking out over the water at these remarkable remnants of Earth's deep past, felt like a fitting end to our journey—one last reminder of the ancient and ever-evolving beauty of Western Australia.

Reflections on the Road

Finally, after winding through these ancient forests and coastal wonders, we made our way back to Perth, reflecting on the vast and varied landscapes we had experienced—from pristine beaches to deep forests, wild oceans to rolling ranges.

Western Australia is truly a land of contrasts, and I can’t wait to translate this incredible journey into my art.

 

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